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Plate I · Far from home · A rare one: gold when ticked

Go north of the Arctic Circle

Going north of the Arctic Circle means standing on land above about 66.5° N, the line beyond which the sun stays up for at least one full day around the June solstice and stays down for at least one in December. It's worth it for the light: midnight sun in summer, northern lights and blue polar dusk in winter, and towns that live with both.

Where to do it

Rovaniemi, Finland

The capital of Finnish Lapland has an airport, an overnight train from Helsinki and a line painted across Santa Claus Village just outside town. It's the easiest crossing in Finland, and the busiest in December, when Christmas visitors fill every bed. The circle drifts north each year, so the painted line is no longer exactly on it.

Tromsø, Norway

A lively university city far inside the circle, with direct flights from Oslo. The midnight sun runs from about late May to late July, and the polar night from about 27 November to 15 January. Aurora tours leave most winter evenings, but the coast of Norway is often cloudy, so give yourself several nights.

Abisko, Sweden

A tiny village in Abisko National Park, on the railway from Stockholm to Narvik, known for clear winter skies and a chairlift up to an aurora viewing station. Summer brings hiking in Sweden's far north. Beds are few, so book early.

Grímsey, Iceland

This small island off the north coast is the one part of Iceland inside the circle, reached by ferry from Dalvík or a short flight from Akureyri. A huge concrete sphere marks the line and is moved each year to follow it. The circle is expected to slip off the island entirely around 2047.

Ilulissat, Greenland

On Disko Bay, beside the UNESCO-listed Ilulissat Icefjord, where icebergs the size of buildings drift past town. Reaching Greenland means flying, usually with a change inside the country, and weather delays are part of the deal. It's a splurge.

Longyearbyen, Svalbard

The main settlement of Svalbard, far north of mainland Norway, with flights from Oslo and Tromsø. Polar bears live here: the Governor of Svalbard requires anyone leaving the settlements to carry suitable means of scaring them off, which is why most visitors go out with a guide.

The Dalton Highway, United States

North of Fairbanks, a gravel road through the Alaskan wilderness passes a signed Arctic Circle stop. Most people go on a van tour or a small-plane trip from Fairbanks, because the road is rough and many rental companies don't allow their cars on it. It's the classic road crossing in the United States.

Hurtigruten coastal ships, Norway

The ships sailing the Norwegian coast between Bergen and Kirkenes cross the circle near a globe sculpture on the islet of Vikingen, and passengers on deck mark the moment. It's a slow, scenic way in, with stops in a different port every few hours.

When to go

For the midnight sun, go from late May to July. For northern lights you need darkness, so go from autumn to early spring and plan several nights, since clouds decide everything. Midwinter brings the polar night and serious cold.

How to make it happen

Questions people ask

Which countries reach north of the Arctic Circle?

Norway, Sweden, Finland, Russia, the United States (Alaska), Canada and Greenland, plus Iceland's island of Grímsey. Our guide to countries in the Arctic Circle covers each one and where to cross it.

Can you see the midnight sun at the Arctic Circle itself?

Only just. At the circle the sun stays above the horizon for about one day around the June solstice. The farther north you go, the longer the season: in Tromsø it lasts about two months.

Do you have to go in winter to see the northern lights?

You need dark skies, so the bright nights of midsummer are out. Anywhere from autumn to early spring works, and in winter it's wise to leave the icy driving to tours and trains.

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