Visit a Christmas market

Visiting a Christmas market means walking through rows of wooden huts lit up in a winter square, with mulled wine in a mug, the smell of roasted almonds and sausages, and handmade ornaments for sale. The tradition comes from Germany and Central Europe, and the markets usually run from late November until just before Christmas, so they're a reason for a winter city break.

Where to do it

Nuremberg, Germany

The Christkindlesmarkt fills the main square below the Frauenkirche and opens on the Friday before Advent with the Christkind, a young woman in gold, reading a prologue from the church balcony. Try Nuremberg's small grilled sausages, three in a roll, and gingerbread called Lebkuchen. Many cities in Germany have famous markets, Dresden and Cologne among them.

Strasbourg, France

The Christkindelsmärik has been held since 1570, one of the oldest in Europe, and the city calls itself the Capital of Christmas. Markets spread across the old town island, with a giant tree on Place Kléber. Weekends in this corner of France are packed, so come on a weekday.

Vienna, Austria

The big market in front of the City Hall has an ice rink in the park beside it, and smaller markets at Schönbrunn Palace, Spittelberg and Karlsplatz feel calmer and more crafty. Punch comes in a souvenir mug with a deposit, refunded when you return it. Evenings in Austria's capital are cold, so dress warmly.

Prague, Czech Republic

The Old Town Square market sits under the Týn Church and the astronomical clock, with a big tree in the middle. Try trdelník, rolled dough cooked over coals, and grilled ham carved from the spit. In the Czech Republic the main square is busiest; Wenceslas Square and Prague Castle have markets too.

Budapest, Hungary

The market on Vörösmarty Square and the one in front of St Stephen's Basilica, with its light show on the facade, are the two to see. Expect stuffed cabbage, chimney cake and mulled wine. Several of Hungary's markets stay open past Christmas, toward the new year.

Tallinn, Estonia

A small, pretty market on the medieval Town Hall Square, with a tall tree and, often, snow. Estonia's capital is quieter and cheaper than the big German markets, and its old town is a World Heritage Site.

Tivoli Gardens, Copenhagen, Denmark

The old amusement park in the middle of Copenhagen turns into a Christmas world of lights, stalls and rides, with an entry ticket. Try æbleskiver, round pancake balls with jam. In Denmark, Nyhavn harbor has stalls too.

Chicago, United States

The Christkindlmarket in Daley Plaza is modeled on Nuremberg's, with German food, mulled wine in boot-shaped mugs and wooden huts. It's a long-running December fixture in the United States, and the Chicago cold is real.

When to go

Most markets open in the last week of November and close on 23 or 24 December; a few stay open into the new year. Weekday afternoons are calmest, and the lights are at their prettiest after dark, which comes early in December.

How to make it happen

• Book early for December weekends. Hotels in the famous market cities fill and rise in price.
• Combine markets. Trains link many of them: Strasbourg and Colmar, Vienna and Bratislava, Prague and Dresden.
• Bring cash and a warm layer. Most stalls take cards now, but not all.
• Return the mug or keep it. Many markets charge a small deposit on the drinks mug; keep it as a souvenir or hand it back for a refund.
• Watch your bag. Crowded markets draw pickpockets.

An evening at a concert or ballet makes a natural pair; see opera, ballet or theatre.